Empty Tables, Rising Costs: How France’s Classic Bistros Are Quietly Fading Away
Just before lunchtime in Angers, western France, restaurateur Mickael Moureaud scans the dining room of L’Ange Vin with a familiar knot in his stomach. By now, the tables should be mostly occupied. Instead, the room is largely silent. “A year ago, this place would be buzzing by 12:30,” he says softly. “Now, most days, it…