Levi’s Under Fire After Supplier Laid Off Hundreds of Workers

Levi’s, a global brand renowned for its ethical stance, is under scrutiny following a report from an independent labour monitoring group. The report accuses Levi’s of neglecting its own labour standards by continuing to work with a Turkish factory that laid off around 400 workers after they joined a union and protested over pay and working conditions.

The factory in question, Ozak Tekstil, located in Turkey’s Sanliurfa region, manufactures jeans exclusively for Levi’s. It also produces clothing for other prominent brands such as Zara, Hugo Boss, Guess, Mango, and Ralph Lauren. According to the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC), the layoffs occurred in December 2023 after employees joined the Birtek-Sen union and went on strike.

Former quality control worker Seher Gulel, who was among those fired, described harsh working conditions, including long hours, bullying by managers, and pay below Turkey’s minimum wage. She joined Birtek-Sen in hopes of better representation but was terminated shortly after.

Levi’s acknowledged the mass firings violated its supplier code of conduct, which protects workers’ rights to unionize and strike without fear of retaliation. Despite this, Levi’s continued its relationship with Ozak Tekstil to avoid further job losses, stating that the continuation depended on the supplier’s adherence to a remediation plan addressing freedom of association, working hours, and health and safety.

Critics, including WRC executive director Scott Nova, argue that Levi’s decision to maintain its business with Ozak Tekstil undermines its labor standards. He contended that Levi’s prioritizes cheap production over worker welfare, sending a concerning message to its global suppliers.

Former workers, many of whom received severance payments, are now struggling to find new employment due to what they describe as blacklisting by Ozak Tekstil. Gulel and fellow former union representative Funda Bakis claim their dismissals were unjustly coded in a government database, making it difficult for them to secure new jobs. Both are suing Ozak Tekstil for unpaid wages and compensation, alleging their union activities led to their termination.

Levi’s has yet to respond to requests for comment on these specific allegations, but the company reiterated its commitment to safe and productive workplaces in a statement. Meanwhile, Ozak Tekstil maintains that the layoffs were justified and unrelated to the workers’ union affiliations.

The controversy highlights ongoing challenges in ensuring fair labor practices within the global supply chain, even for brands with strong ethical reputations.