Cocoa beans have to be removed from their pods and processsed

India’s Cocoa Boom: How Squirrels and Innovation Are Reshaping a Growing Industry

For George Matthew, a doctor-turned-farmer in Kerala, a failed experiment with cocoa saplings a decade ago became the foundation for a thriving venture—thanks to some unexpected help from squirrels.

Dr. Matthew, who inherited a struggling rubber plantation in the 1970s, decided to diversify his crops as falling rubber prices eroded profits. He planted cocoa trees, hoping to offset losses, but initial efforts faltered. Most saplings withered, and mischievous squirrels raided his farm, eating the cocoa pods and scattering seeds across his property.

However, what seemed like a nuisance turned out to be a stroke of luck. The scattered seeds germinated into robust cocoa plants, far healthier than the original saplings. Today, Dr. Matthew’s 50-acre farm boasts 6,000 cocoa trees, and he regards the decision to grow cocoa as one of his best.

India’s Untapped Cocoa Potential

Despite its favourable climate for cocoa cultivation, India contributes just 1% of global cocoa production, far behind industry leaders like Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana. Indian farmers currently meet only 25% of the domestic demand for cocoa beans, which is rising by 15% annually, according to the Cocoa Board of India.

Challenges such as small-scale farming and inadequate post-harvest processing hinder India’s cocoa industry. Proper fermentation—a critical step that enhances the flavour, aroma, and quality of cocoa beans—remains an area needing improvement.

Renny Jacob, chairman of India Cocoa, a firm with over three decades of experience in cocoa production, emphasised the importance of this step. “Fermentation is key to transforming raw cocoa beans into chocolate-ready material,” he said.

Innovation and Investment in Cocoa Farming

To bridge the gap between demand and supply, both government and private sectors have ramped up support for cocoa farmers. Initiatives include developing hybrid cocoa plants that are more productive and resilient, as well as training programmes to improve cultivation and post-harvest techniques.

Kerala Agricultural University, in collaboration with Cadbury, has pioneered 15 hybrid cocoa varieties that are disease-resistant, drought-tolerant, and capable of yielding up to five kilograms per tree annually—far exceeding the global average of 0.25 kilograms.

Dr. Minimol J.S., head of cocoa research at the university, highlighted the significance of these innovations. “These hybrids have withstood extreme temperatures of up to 40°C, which was previously unimaginable,” she said.

Indian Chocolate Makers Drive Demand

The surge in local cocoa production has attracted a new wave of Indian chocolate manufacturers, such as Kocoatrait, a Chennai-based company that exclusively uses Indian cocoa beans.

Founder Nitin Chordia cites the beans’ smaller carbon footprint, cost-effectiveness, and unique flavour as advantages over imports. Kocoatrait also educates farmers on advanced fermentation and drying techniques to enhance bean quality.

However, Chordia acknowledged the challenges. “While Indian cocoa has made strides in the fine-flavour segment, we still have a long way to go to achieve large-scale international recognition.”

A Bright Future for Indian Cocoa

Despite the hurdles, optimism is growing among India’s cocoa farmers. Dr. Matthew, who has been approached by a multinational company to buy his produce, sees a lucrative future.

“Cocoa is a tricky crop, and farmers shouldn’t rely on it alone,” he said, noting the importance of diversifying with other trees. Still, he remains confident about the industry’s potential.

“With demand rising, the future looks bright,” he said. “This journey has been worth it.”

India’s cocoa story, driven by innovation and growing demand, is just beginning, with the potential to reshape its role in the global chocolate market.

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